The Clarksburg American Viticultural Area sits just south of Sacramento, less than 30 minutes from downtown. Still largely uncrowded, the area features scenic country roads that wind along the levees of the Sacramento River Delta.
Despite its proximity to the city, Clarksburg remains a thriving agricultural region where the sights, sounds, and even the traffic of farming are all part of the experience.
During harvest, the levee roads come alive with trucks carrying thousands of pounds of freshly picked winegrapes from vineyard to winery. A skilled semi-truck driver hauling a 25-ton load picked in the wee hours may pass you, navigating the winding route with a familiarity you can only envy.
Clarksburg’s nightly Delta breeze provides relief from hot summer days, creating a growing environment well suited to a diverse range of grape varieties. The drop in temperature between day and night can be up to 40°F—one of the defining benefits of growing grapes in this region. This nightly temperature drop helps grapes retain their acidity, an important determinant of quality in a finished wine.
Imagine cutting open an orange, only to find it a little mushy and lackluster, like a piece of old chewing gum that has retained its texture without any of the flavor. It’s missing that something that makes it so delicious. That something? Acidity.
In wine-speak, acidity is often described as “brightness.” It’s the lively quality that gives a wine freshness and leaves a lingering impression of flavor even after the sip is gone. For those who are not as familiar with wine tasting, a relatable perception of acidity occurs when the tip of the tongue touches a lemon and the sides of the mouth flood with saliva.
Temperature and acidity have an inverse relationship in winegrapes. As temperature increases, acidity decreases. Grapes ripen faster in warmer climates, while cooler evenings slow the ripening process, giving grapes more time to develop flavor while retaining their natural acidity.
On this particular morning, grower David Ogilvie of Wilson Vineyards and Silt Wine Company is harvesting two white wine grapes that are known for their ability to retain acidity, even when grown in warm climates. Organic Chenin blanc has been hand-picked by a crew in the earliest morning hours, while mechanical harvest of Riesling is underway in a block down the road.
In the vineyards Ogilvie manages, requests for hand-picked grapes are increasing. As Clarksburg gains notoriety as a region, an influx of winery buyers who prefer hand-harvesting is driving this change. Ogilvie says that the decision between mechanical and hand harvesting often comes down to the practicality of moving machinery relative to the tonnage being harvested and the price the buyer is willing to pay.
Mechanical harvesting is extremely common and widely used. Mechanical harvesters can harvest grapes much faster than crews and can reduce labor expenses, which is particularly important given agricultural labor availability and costs.
Walking into the dark vineyard feels peaceful at first. There’s a certain reverence to being outside in the early morning under an open sky. But an entire world of agriculture is already in motion. There are bright lights, the rumble of diesel engines, and the exciting chaos of load-up. These grapes are heading to wineries all over northern California.
While most of us sleep, dedicated farmworkers and managers are already hard at work picking grapes, filling bins, and driving tractors. Watching the crew’s extraordinary expertise in action, it’s easy to forget the significance of what you’re seeing. This is the moment of utmost importance: the instant the grapes come off the vine.
It’s staggering to consider all the work in the vineyard that led up to harvest day. Innumerable decisions about viticultural practices—from irrigation management and pruning to leaf pulling and fruit thinning—along with hundreds of others, ultimately shaped each cluster.
When asked about his favorite part of harvest, Ogilvie is quick to answer that it’s loading bins at sunrise. It’s hard to be disappointed out in the cool air of a new day when everything is just beginning.
Sublime. :)